17 December 2005 - Bagan

On arrival at Bagan, the worst nightmare of any air traveller came true. My luggage did not arrive from Rangoon !! But my guide Mr. Nyi Nyi assured me that it would arrive by 4.30 PM flight.

I am being treated like a VIP. The guide has a chauffer driven car, which display Tour Mandalay board saying WELCOME, DR. KUMAR TO MYANMAR. I feel very special !! Also, my impression of Burma and the Burmese are changing fast. Before arriving in Burma i thought I will be stepping back in time say, 1940 or 50 but it is a modern country, excellent roads, good cars and coaches, western standered 5 star hotels and a very efficient and professionally organised tourist industry. I am begining to like the country and its friendly, courtceous, warm and hospitable people. The country is beutiful and lush green.

William Dalrymple, the travel writer is currently based with his family in Delhi. I left him a bottl of Chivas Regal at Imperial Hotel in Delhi. He emailed me to thank and said Bagan is his favourite place on earth. And I could not agree more.

In 16 square miles, appox. 2500 pagodas and temples are scattered. History of Bagan begins in 9th century.It is the place where Burmese culture developed.During the reign of King Anawrahta, 1044-77 AD, a Buddhist monk named Shin Arahan introduced Therawad Buddhism. The King and the Monk spread the gospel of Buddha. The religious zeal led to the construction of several grand edifices.Bagan is a delight for any lover of architecture and archeology. We first went to see the beutiful Ywa Haung Gyi temple. We climbed to the top. The view from above was breathtaking. Look right, left, front back, one see only pagodas , stupa and temple, hundreds, thousands of them, of various size and shape, of architectural excellence, serene,sombre, each containing Buddha's statue. Then we went to see the 13th century temple called Gu Byauk Gyi. Then I saw Shwe Zi Gon Pagoda, a most symmetrical structure. After seeing Hti Lomin Lo temple, I went to see Anand Temple. it is a massive building, very beutiful and has four Buddha on four sides, each 30 feet tall.

At 3PM I returned to mu Hotel Therabar Gate. At 4 PM my suitcase arrived from Rangoon. At 4.30 PM Nyi Nyi picked me up to take me to Padoda area to see sunset. We climbed on the top of a temple and gazed at the horizon. Sun was slowly setting in. Everything was basking in golden glow. Azure blue sky, flat landscape dotted with padodas, stupas and temples, lush green jungle and distant mountains, no camera or video could capture the atmosphere. It has to be seen, experienced, lived and breathe. When the sun finally set, I returned to the hotel for shower. I raided the adjascent restaurant for nice Burmese food and I was not disappointed with rice, prawn curry and vagetables. And the bill? $4, or just £2.30 !!!