Good Evening to all.
This entry might be a bit lengthy as there is lots to tell.
In the time since we last conversed I left the wonderful town of Belgrade for The Bird Country i.e Turkey.
The train journey took 27 hours (4hours late) and was an experience to say the least. Some of the scenery especially in Serbia was fantastic- really jagged, almost white mountains that the train cut through, past fast flowing rivers and lush greenery. The houses were surreal as they were exactly like the ones you see in news reports on Kosovo or Bosnia and seem somewhat removed from.
The Bulgarian border (both times) was a nightmare, I think we probably spent about 5 hours of the journey at the two border points. I was questioned over my pig (told you that thing was nothing but trouble Mum) as they thought he looked like a drugs smuggling device. It probably didn't help matters that I've got bruises all down my arms from where I've put on my backpack which make me look like I've been shooting up. Great.
Bulgaria is a very poor country, you just had to look at some of the ''houses'' outside of Sofia consisting of concrete and corrugated iron and not much else, to see that.
The train then ended up stopping in some Bulgarian back water for hours meaning we got to the Turkish border at 7am rather than 3.30am. While getting my visa I got chatting to a guy wearing what else but a Reading'05 T Shirt.
And now for Istanbul. It's a pretty easy city to navigate around, or at least I've found that. I'm so glad I have a good sense of direction because I doubt id have been able to manage otherwise. The more I see of this city the more it seems to me like a caricature of itself. That's a not a bad thing, its just surreal that everything you'd expect to see is here- from the ornate mosques, tiled buildings, masses of carpet shops, tiny grocery shops and then in the midst of it all, scruffy little flats with peeling paintwork all clumped together.
I made my way first to the hotel then headed to the Blue Mosque where I bumped into Mr. Reading 05 T Shirt again (aka Alex). Turns out he's also heading onto Syria, Jordan and Israel though our schedules are a bit different. We may well meet again in Syria, stranger things have happened.
Also at the Mosque I met my "guide" who showed me round and told me its history. Something told me that a carpet related catch was involved and sure enough that was where we ended up. I'm not complaining- i got free apple tea (one of the best drinks ever) an got to make some carpet myself. Eventually I managed to decline all the carpets to which my guide declared his love for me and asked me to dinner... Which I also declined. His response of "You are breaking up with me?" caught me a bit off guard but a speedy exit was still made.
For dinner I went to a rooftop restaurant over looking the Bospherous and the Blue Mosque where I had baked kebab, baklava and tea, lots of tea all of which came to less than 5 pounds. Bargain.
Back at the hostel I got chatting to some people over beer, a couple of whom had recently left Lebanon. My early night ended up as me crawling into bed at 4.30am. Yawn.
Today I went over to the Bus Station where I get my bus to Syria from. It has to be seen to be believed, an enormous square just filled with the offices of the 80 odd different bus companies all with their representatives standing outside shouting at you as you pass. Classic. Got my ticket (though not to Damascus- more on that later)
Then to the best pastry shop in Istanbul for a pistachio and banana sponge cream thing and APPLE TEA both of which were wonderful.
After a stroll the Maria mosque/ex church I went for dinner- kofte (meatballs), salad and bread. Lovely though now I'm rather full.
I'm going to miss this city, its really grown on me. I haven't thankful received to much hassle, and any I have received hasn't been bad natured or threatening. I've surprised myself with how well I've dealt with things, given my previous long held fear of Turkish men (that I've had ever since one tried to assault me in Paris when I was 11). I've done so well that a guy who started talking to me earlier said in surprise when I started to speak English-
"You are not Turkish? You walk just the way the local women do. Do you live here in Istanbul?"
I was rather impressed with that.
Time to go now I think. Sorry about the length. Oh Christ I almost forgot the Syrian plan changes. Syrian schedule now runs as follows
Monday- Bus to Syria
Tuesday- Arrive Aleppo. Night there.
Wednesday- Leave Aleppo. Night Palmyra.
Thursday- Day and night Palmyra
Friday- Bus to Damascus. Night Damascus.
Saturday- Day and night Damascus
Sunday- Day and night Damascus
Monday- Leave Damascus for Jordan.
Changes are due to a mixture of bus times, arrival times and phone calls needing to be made, cryptic I know but oh well.
Love to you all.
Hannah
x x x x
P.S Dad, mwa ha ha the kababs (thats the right spelling) are to die for. Tehe.
Turkey
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