I have feeling again that this will be a long entry, as I haven't been on here for a few days.
Well, my last night in Istanbul was fun- a few beers and then went to take night time photos of the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia at 2am. There were lots of mad looking dogs running around and fear of rabies was high...
Early morning the next day with packing to be done. Got to the bus station at 2pm for my bus at2.30pm. I have no idea how I survived that bus journey- we almost crashed numerous times, at one point almost hitting a cow that refused to move from the center of the road. Nightmare. Also I was sitting next to a rather large woman which made the little sleep I got uncomfortable to say the least. The scenery was stunning though, we wound our way through steep forest covered hills and then at sunset we passed through dry, arid mountains that seemed to exaggerate the vivid colours of the evening sky. I woke in the morning to a view of the Mediterranean and knew we were near the buses (though not my) final destination.
At 8am (after almost 18hours) we arrived at Hatay, a Turkish town near the Syrian border. Here I had to change buses, and a wait which should have taken an hour instead took 2. Finally we left the station and started to make our way in land. AS we did the landscape changed dramatically. Dry almost white ground gave way to dark red coloured soil where the land had been cultivated. The villages we passed were filled with tiny sandy coloured houses, while next to them kids played in the local "pond" (more a large puddle of muddy water)
The border was an experience to say the least. The Turkish side was a nightmare. I was the only woman, no one spoke English and there was no orderly queue. And all this in the middle of nowhere, in 37degree heat.
The Syrian side was a lot better, with an actual building rather than just a hole in the wall. Confusion abounded over my nationality though, "If you are British why does it say Ireland on your passport?" It was also the first time anyone had spoken English to me in 24 hours, so that was nice. Very quick bag search and we were off again.
Now, Aleppo. Can I first state that at no point was I lost. To be lost you first have to have an idea of where you are, and then loose that idea. From the moment I stepped off the bus I had no clue at all where I was. After about 10 minutes of wandering and enduring constant stares I decided to ask someone. Here was my first experience of Syrian hospitality. Within a minute of asking one guy (who fortunately spoke English) a crowd of about 6 had gathered trying to work out where we were and how to get to where i was headed. Easier said than done when they speak Arabic and the map is in English. After a while it emerged that one of the guys was about to walk to near to where
I needed to go and that I could follow him. (This was of course said in
Arabic)
So for 20 minutes we walked in silence through the busy streets (more on them later) of Halep. After this time my guide asked another man to help me and like a flash he was gone. My new guide escorted me into his shop, a pharmacy where again a gaggle of men gathered to discuss my route. I was asked to take a seat and brought water, which I clearly needed. The owner of the shop then wrote down where I was going in Arabic and pointed the way. I thanked him and he responded that he was only doing his duty before heading back to his shop. In a matter of minutes I was at the hotel.
My hotel is located up 2flights of stairs in a small building near a souq. My room is a bit scruffy but is more than adequate, i had my best nights sleep of the journey so far there last night. As soon as I got to my room I promptly fell asleep for a couple of hours.
When I woke, it was 7pm and too late I decided to go out on my own for dinner in a city I didn't know. I still had some biscuits left from the bus journey and I would satisfy myself with them til morning.
I sat in the lounge reading my book on Israel and the Arabs, making sure to hide the cover from other residents as to not cause offense. By 11pm I was ready for bed, but decided to head up to the roof terrace for a look over the city first. It was there I met Mohamed and Rafi, my new Syrian friends. I was offered a seat and given beer and through broken English and French we just about managed a conversation. About an hour later plates and cutlery were produced and I was told that Mohamed was cooking dinner (this was at midnight). Soon a bowl of scrambled egg and tomato(which was delicious) was produced along with masses of Syrian flat bread. The cutlery was of course discarded in favour of using bread, with the right hand of course.
By the time I left it was past 1am and full of food I climbed into bed.
Late morning today, as I've decided to stay in Aleppo another night and stay one night less in Palmyra. My plan for the day includes a visit to the Christan quarter and a trip down to the souqs and the Citadel in the old city.
My first impressions of Syria- kind of what I expected but a lot friendlier, probably the most hospitable country I've been to. To look at its very much what I imagine, though I have to admit by being a bit taken a back by the massive show of visible for Hizbollah, with flags being sold absolutely everywhere. Also, the constant presence of Assad jnr (or as I like to call him, the Syrian Husky, due to his glowing blue eyes.) The traffic here is chaotic to say the least, with about 4 lanes between which cars constantly shift, and hardly any pedestrian crossings.
Oh and its frustrating that i can get on MSN Messenger but can't access my email. Argh.
Right I have to be off now.
Love to you all.
Hannah
xxxx
Syria
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